Sizzle or Steak?
“Do you want sizzle or steak?” Marv Crum asked me when we sat down to taste his reds from the aptly named Red Mountain AVA. A rhetorical question for any wine enthusiast, but for those unfamiliar with the phrase, it essentially means, do you want a high-quality product or simply the “idea” of one, and I am here to tell you, Marv is making the real deal. I first met him and his lovely wife Susan a few weeks ago at the Taste WA Grand Tasting in Seattle and I couldn’t get their Cabernet out of my mind. I immediately reached out a few days later and asked when we could get together to try his current bottled wines as well as a few still aging beautifully in their new French oak barrels. Fun fact: Marv *only* uses new French oak on his wines, and while the barrels have various toast levels, it makes the difference during aging and produces the large but incredibly smooth cabs. My wife and I joined Marv and Susan at their production facility this past Sunday and were in for quite a treat. But before the review, a bit of history.
Covale Cellars (named from combining “Columbia” and “Valley”) was founded by Marv and Susan in 2020. Marv has almost 30 years of winemaking experience, mostly with Quilceda Creek Vintners, one of the most acclaimed wineries in Washington State. Much like a pro-athlete with plenty of fuel left in the tank, after a short retirement, he decided to return to his passion and make high quality red varietal wines sourced from Quintessence Vineyard on Red Mountain. Quintessence Vineyard is one of the premier vineyards on Red Mountain, known for its warm and dry climate, ideal for growing Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties. The vineyard was planted in 2010 by Marshall Edwards, who has over 40 years of viticulture experience. The grapes are carefully tended and harvested to ensure optimal ripeness and quality.
Covale Cellars currently offers two wines: a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cabernet Franc, both from the 2020 vintage. I had the opportunity to taste both wines as well as their 2021 counterparts which unfortunately are not available just yet, but I was sure to make my allocation intent known when they are! They also have an amazing Merlot in barrel, with an incredible 15% ABV and yet it may be the smoothest Merlot I’ve tasted outside of Europe.
*2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Quintessence Vineyard Red Mountain*
The ’20 Cab Sauvignon is a beautiful deep ruby color with aromas of black cherry, cassis, vanilla, cedar, and spice. On the palate, it is full-bodied, rich, and smooth, with layers of dark fruit, chocolate, coffee and toast. The tannins are firm but well-integrated, giving structure and balance to the wine. The finish is long and lingering, with hints of licorice and mint. This Cab is impressive for its intensity, complexity, and elegance. It shows the potential of Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon at its best and can be enjoyed now or cellared for another 10-15 years. I made sure to buy a few to test the theory both now and later.
*2020 Cab Franc Quintessence Vineyard Red Mtn*
The ’20 Cab Franc is a bright garnet color with a nose of raspberry, plum, violet, pepper, and tobacco. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, fresh and lively, with flavors of red berries, herbs, leather and smoke. The acidity is crisp and refreshing, while the tannins are soft and silky. The finish is fruity and spicy, with notes of cinnamon and clove. Overall, the wine is delightful for its freshness, aromatics, and finesse. It is yet another example of Red Mountain fruit at its best and it can be enjoyed now or cellared for another 5-10 years.
Bottom line, with a rockstar winemaker like Marv, Covale Cellars is a winery to watch out for in Washington State. His wines are expressive, dare I say perfectly crafted, and delicious. They reflect the terroir of Red Mountain and the skill of Marv as a winemaker, selling the “steak” and not just the “sizzle.” I highly recommend them to anyone who loves red wines from Washington State or Bordeaux varieties in general.
If you are interested in trying Covale Cellars wines, you can order them online at their website or visit their winery by appointment only. Trust me when I tell you, the drive up to Snohomish is well worth the bottles you will undoubtedly leave with!
Email them at CovaleCellars@Outlook.com or check them out on Facebook and Instagram!
