Sipping thru Sonoma
Over spring break, my wife and I met up with our extended family from Oregon and ventured down to Sonoma for a weeklong excursion amongst the vines in one of the country’s most known wine destinations. Truth be told, like many who want the long-standing champs to fail, I too wanted to visit Sonoma and dislike everything compared to my home state of Washington’s wines (playfully of course). But while I have an extreme loyalty to my northern grape growers, I have to say, I gained a new appreciation for California grapes and the awesome people who do magical things with them. This article is an all too short summary of the places we visited and some spots you need to check out if you find yourself in Sonoma County!
Wineries and tasting rooms written in order of visit, not preference or quality
1. Baldassari
Tucked into the downtown of the adorable town of Windsor is Baldassari, a corner tasting room with beautiful wines and charcuterie boards to match! What this place lacks in space it makes up for in a diverse wine menu that displays the best of Russian River Valley with whites as complex and tasty as the reds. The biggest surprise was the Rosé of Pinot Noir, which most wineries cannot seem to get right. The rosé at Baldassari was crisp, and light, while displaying beautiful Pinot notes without being overpowering or too faint to notice. For my wife to enjoy a rosé is a victory in itself and Baldassari was a great first stop and introduction to the beauty that is Sonoma.
Other notable bottles: 2020 Chardonnay, 2023 Knight’s Valley Sauvignon Blanc
Visit: 9058 Windsor Road, Windsor, CA 95492
2. Tonti Family Wines
Located just a block north of Baldassari is Tonti Family Wines, an unassuming powerhouse of a tasting room. As we walked in, we passed a nice older gentleman sitting outside at a small table speaking with a friend and he offered a warm hello which I found very welcoming and felt it really embodied this quaint town and the people who called it home. We sat down in a comfy corner of the tasting room and was treated to a lovely tasting by the tasting room host, Evan. Tonti specializes in Zinfandel, a grape that I have always believed only grows well in California, and sure enough, this place had it locked in! As we sipped from the flight and loved each wine more than the one before it, Evan spoke about the family legacy and explained the artwork on the walls that was drawn by the owners father during his time in Italy where the family is from. It was then that the nice man from outside walked in and went behind the bar to grab himself a bottle. Bewildered, we asked Evan if this man was a regular and he said “well kind of… he’s the owner, Peter Tonti…” After a good laugh and feeling ridiculous, we asked Peter to come over and doted on his wines and winery. Peter was so gracious and passionate about his wines and family legacy. While the wines were incredible, Peter’s stories and charisma were a perfect pairing to the wine and made for an awesome end to the day.
Notable bottle: 2019 Russian River Valley Old Vine Zinfandel
This Zinfandel is a juicy, fruit-forward wine that captivates with its interplay of smoky and spicy layers. Its deep purple color hints at the richness within. On the palate, you’ll discover fruity aromas and flavors reminiscent of grilled plum, raspberry coulis, and a touch of tobacco. The black pepper and coriander seed add an intriguing twist, while allspice provides warmth. The wine’s texture is silky and lively, falling into the off-dry, light-to-medium body category. As you savor it, the smooth, delightful, medium-long finish reveals subtle leather notes, complemented by a moderate oak flavor.
Visit: 9086 Windsor Road, Windsor, California 95492
3. Ty Caton Vineyards
Located right off Sonoma Highway in Kenwood, Ty Caton is a fun spot that you might miss if not looking for it. Nestled into a complex adjacent to a Brewery and Gastro pub (which smelled delicious), this little tasting room has a family feel with limited seating but a fun bar for walk up tasting and lots of beautiful photos on the wall of the vineyards the grapes are grown in, included Ty’s gorgeous property. We had a super fun and energetic tasting host, George, who hails from Ireland and his accent makes for fun conversation. Ty Caton’s claim to fame is his Cabernet Sauvignon grown across 7 blocks in the Moon Mountain district. While each of the Cabs we tasted were delicious and had their unique qualities (much like sampling different clones of Pinot Noir), it was the 2021 Estate Four Rows Cabernet that we collectively loved. Four Rows Select is a small-batch Cabernet Sauvignon, produced from just 12 barrels. It originates from Ty’s cherished vineyard area on his estate, with the vines receiving meticulous attention, and the wine matures in the finest French oak barrels. For Cabernet enthusiasts like me, this is a true delight. On the palate, expect flavors of plum, dark chocolate, and cedar, accompanied by firm tannins. Best of all, the wine’s decadent finish hints at its potential for aging!
Other notable bottles: 2020 Estate Tytanium Flagship Red Blend, 2021 Estate Upper Bench Block Three Bordeaux Blend
Visit: 8910 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, CA 95452
4. Kunde Family Winery
A favorite for my wife and I during a visit in 2021, we knew we needed to bring our family back to experience Kunde in post-covid times. Kunde is a gorgeous estate about a mile south of Ty Caton on Sonoma Highway and one of the prettiest tasting rooms in the valley. A 5th generation winery, Kunde started in 1904 and the first vineyards were started with vines brought from Chateaux Margaux and Lafite Rothschild, a couple small French vineyards you may have heard of. ;) The tasting flight as remained much the same form our last visit (which we were hoping for) and the one bottle we knew we wanted to share with our family was the Meritage 202, a bottle we have never forgotten since the first trip and one that we bought several of, to cellar back in ’21. A “Meritage” is a wine that is made from the blending of the 5 Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. It’s basically the supergroup of wine if The Beatles, Rolling Stones, Pearl Jam, and Garth Brooks decided to start a combined band…. The 2019 Meritage 202 is a robust red blend that reverently honors the winery’s original bonded number ‘202’, bestowed upon patriarch Louis Kunde in the 1900s. Using the five Bordeaux varieties, it reveals a distinctive aroma characterized by plum, currants, and anise. As you savor it, the heady bouquet gives way to opulent, full-mouth flavors of black cherry and dried cranberries. My wife calls it “her Bordeaux benchmark” and I have to agree with her, its damn near perfection in a bottle. When we got home from this trip, we quickly opened the 2016 Meritage we had cellared and drinking it was an emotional experience, 10x better than it was 3 years ago. If you have any bottles of the Meritage 202, be sure to lay a few down for 3-5 years and you won’t be sorry!
Other notable bottles: 2021 Red Wine 5th Gen Blend, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Drummond, 2021 Reserve Chardonnay
Visit: 9825 Sonoma Hwy. Kenwood, CA. 95452
5. Ledson
Anyone who drives through Sonoma has probably seen the “castle” which is home to Ledson Winery. A stunning property with quite literally a castle for a tasting room, or several rooms I should say. Even for non-wine drinkers, this is a must-see destination if in the area just for the ambiance and scenery. For those coming for the wine experience, I will preface, this is one of the pricier tasting experiences in the valley. Granted, the location and wines are top notch, spendy tasting fees are not for everyone, so please know that its not the most budget friendly stop on the map. There are several tasting types on the menu, but due to our party size we had to choose the “seated tasting” which was hosted in a beautiful room with a long table and perfect view out the back facing the gardens. Like many large wineries, Ledson has an extensive menu, with a range of reds to choose from and just a couple whites. Almost every wine on the roster has won several awards and after tasting across the flight it is easy to see why. As a fan of “unoaked” chardonnay, I particularly enjoyed the 2022 Russian River Valley “Tres Frais” Chardonnay. A slow and ultra-cold stainless-steel fermentation ensures that this wine preserves concentrated aromas of juicy apricot, zesty lemon, and Golden Delicious apple on the nose. As it graces the palate, it reveals vibrant, intense, and fresh characteristics. The elegant minerality and succulence are accompanied by flavors of pineapple, ripe peach, and more apricot. The finale is an alluring finish that sparkles with the brightness of citrus fruit and apple.
However, the jewel of the afternoon was the 2019 Sonoma Valley Estate Vineyard “Bellisimo”. This bottle stopped everyone at the table in their tracks as we all melted during each sip of this decadent red blend. The Sonoma Valley ‘Estate Vineyard’ Bellisimo is a precious gem that embodies exquisite balance. From its deep ruby hue, cherry blossom, mulberry, and plum take flight. Upon the first sip, the palate experiences luscious layers reminiscent of cherry pie, fresh rhubarb, and a touch of cinnamon. The wine’s texture is richly textured. As the journey unfolds, fresh cherry, spice, and vanilla oak interplay, creating a stunningly complex finish that lingers, leaving an indelible impression long after the last sip.
Other notable bottles: 2022 Sonoma Valley “Little Horse Estate Vineyard” Sauvignon Blanc
Visit: 7335 Highway 12, Kenwood, CA 95409
6. Christopher Creek
I think I speak for my entire family when I say this was by far, our favorite stop of the trip. While giant estates like Kunde or Ledson are beautiful to visit and a staple for every Instagram influencer who needs to feel glamourous, real wine aficionados go where the best wine is made, and for me, in Healdsburg, its Christopher Creek.
Down a very unassuming dirt road named Limerick Lane, sits the small estate of Christopher Creek, so named because of the water at the bottom of the hill, not the owner. Liam McCormick, CC’s owner, greeted us in the parking lot as we were admiring the “estate house” that stands next to the hills of vines and was quick to make friends of us all. He even called me out as the “guy from Anchored Vines” and quizzed me on what type of grape vines I was standing next to. With nothing budding yet I had no way to tell, so instead he asked what makes Chardonnay taste oaky and buttery. With a quick response of “malolactic fermentation” I had gained his winemaking respect (I hope), and the tasting experience was under way.
While there is a formal “tasting room” on the property inside the production barn, we were instead seated outside on the veranda, next to the pool and overlooking the rolling hills of Healdsburg, enjoying the sunshine that us Washingtonians and Oregonians had not seen in weeks. Liam is not your typical winery owner or tasting room host, rocking an AC/DC t-shirt and shorts, the ex-heavy metal guitarist was as friendly and gracious as he was knowledgeable and passionate about the wines he now oversaw. Pouring almost everything from the menu it seemed, Liam also joined us at the table and walked through each pour while also teaching the history of the winery, the Foppoli family that founded it, and the rich 100-year history spanning from Italy to California.
This was a winery that I couldn’t pick a favorite wine at gunpoint, because they were all equally exquisite and beautiful, but the most memorable wine and accompanying story was that of the “Deux Barriques”. The Deux Barriques Reserve is a testament to the winery's commitment to excellence and the happy accidents that sometimes lead to extraordinary results. A blend unlike any other, combining 50% Petite Sirah and 50% Zinfandel to create a harmonious balance of flavors and textures. This wine is a celebration of the unexpected, where two seemingly disparate varietals come together to form a well-rounded and complex profile. The amazing story of this wine tells of an accident in the production warehouse when a member of the team was moving tanks of wine and accidentally punctured a tank of Petite Sirah and rather than let it all go to waste, they quickly added it to a tank of Zinfandel, creating an uncommon but incredibly delicious blend. Since its inception, it’s become a staple of Christopher Creek and one of the most sought-after bottles in Sonoma!
Lastly, it’s been my rule of thumb not to join wine clubs that aren’t local because you miss out on the local perks and you’re essentially signing up for quarterly shipments of pricey (although very good) wines. Well, our time at Christopher Creek quickly changed that mindset. After sampling the wines, experiencing the location, and learning of the estate house, which is open for bookings by club members, I was hooked. To be able to spend a weekend on that property, waking up to those views and relaxing by a pool with delicious wines in hand, take my money! A special thanks and shoutout to Liam who made my families’ visit to Sonoma the experience we were hoping (and everyone hopes) it would be!
Other notable bottles: 2023 Kasim Pinot Noir, basically everything on the menu…
Visit: 641 Limerick Ln, Healdsburg, CA 95448